Showing posts with label Ladakh. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ladakh. Show all posts

Thursday, September 14, 2017

Reflections On A Retreat in Ladakh

I returned on Sept 1, after 11 months of retreat in Ladakh. I was mostly silent and alone during this period. This was hand written on 29/8/2017:

My period of retreat is coming to an end in Ladakh. I sit in the cold of the early morning light looking at the magnificent Stok range, blue and gold with still a little on the icy caps, in sharp focus, and spreading across the horizon. The Indus valley in foreground is dry, barren and dusty brown with splotches of village greens. I sit amidst such dense greens of poplars and willows, dancing to the slightest breeze, and I reflect, on days, weeks, months flown by - most of it already in haze, some lit up like crystal moments, bright and illuminated like gems, in my treasury of memories.

I realise now that I am a collector, of all things bright and beautiful. This is neither a conscious decision, nor a deliberate choice - only a recent recognition. It allows me to face the ahead with an eager anticipation for discoveries yet to be made, moments yet to be captured and savoured. I therefore gaze in attention, and sharp focus, that precious details not escape my Now, the Present. My time in Ladakh has harvested a small bounty that will colour my days and flavour my experiences with who I have now become.

I wandered the bustling market places, alive, boisterous, spilling - with produce from the land - fertile, green and abundantly bountiful in the brief of transparent summer days. Land and soil, rich and fertile from generations of tilling, turning, seeding, harvesting and returning it all - back to the soil - in balance and harmony between man and his natural world. Apricots, milk, greens in all shades, crisp and fresh off the earth. Also, there are jewellers with turquoise and corals, gold and silver; carpenters, ironsmiths, tailors making Gonchas of thick wool and brass buttons, dyers with dye vats in shades of deep maroons and finally Kashmiris - with their beautiful faces and alluring invitation to just step inside " to Look - not Buy"- into shops fragrant with saffron and spice, finest Pashminas, silk carpets fit for royalty, old silver and gemstones unearthed from lost worlds and always stories. One knows that to pause, is to be lost, and yet, one halts outside, entranced, and beguiled, to descend hypnotised to wafts of Kahwa into their mysterious Alladin's caves.

I have wandered amongst many lives, and listened - for each has had a story to tell. And my treasury of stories has grown, feeding and nourishing my life with a connectedness by a common human thread, coloured with dreams, aspirations, a need for loving and to be loved. And I have learnt of their myths - that source spring that connects us to the Divine, that mysterious, unknown, omnipotent, omnipresent, and omniscient to whom we reach out, by closing our eyes.

I have wandered through seasons amongst hills and valleys on such gigantic scale that one is physically hit with one's insignificance - constantly; where rivers flow serenely turquoise, jade, in winters but become deep, thick earth brown, powerful and swirling-enraged in late summer. I have walked days along shores of mystical lakes that change their colour and hue in an eye blink and under lapis starlit skies that guided my steps. And all this colour, light and immense grandeur is imprinted upon my spirit - to be recalled later - when heart gets parched. The immense cobalt sky has cracked me open and seeped within into a pool that is growing deeper in silence and stillness - for me to carry back - wherever I go, whatever I do.

And finally I have learnt to turn my gaze inwards - face the turbulent dark currents of cares that had me drowned, blocking off all light. I realised that all my answers lie within and I would be led by this inner gaze. Slowly and gently my spirit revived, nurtured in nature by silence and beauty, till I was healed and whole, transparent and light. I was insignificant, yet became indispensable and integral to the cosmic vastness that surrounded me with mystery which opened my days and filled my nights with star songs.

And, I learnt, to let-go; that human caring need not only be a burden, and to walk a solitary path is never in vain. My wavering faith in myself grew strong - like the mountains; and like them I shrugged off accumulated scree till my slopes were cleared - for pristine snows to clad it in silence, for grass to grow, flowers to bloom and streams to meander their laughing course. I am now these mountains - strong, resolute, poised and uplifted; balanced between earth and sky. I am now - me.



Monday, September 26, 2016

I : Monologue From My Past

I came across these writings from my visit to Ladakh last year.

Plump sparrows swing from slender willows.

Utter silence - wind breathes in my ear to the rhythm of my footfall.

Wind gusts of petals,
Apricot blossoms rain all over me.

white butterfly, flits in hide and seek, amongst apricot blossoms.

Gnarled wood,
Fragile blossoms.
My heart?

Silence sings -
within or without?

Two days of Sun; Siachen river turns from slow clear turquoise to loud, fast and muddy.

Yak boulders sit around a white Mane.

Prayer flags fly over petty hearts.

I read " Buddha can be defined as one who has abandoned wrong actions and is in continuous quest for self knowledge". But self interest and query are pre-requisites to defining right and wrong?

Suffering is primarily a  human infliction, from within or without, rather than a Karmic expression.


Thursday, November 8, 2012

Walking In Zanskar

This time I
left no footprint
nor scattered any
song to the wind.

I walked in silence
with a quiet mind,
in watchful attendance-
my breath aligned.

My steps tread
in soundless pace
aware of my place
in this time and space.










Saturday, November 3, 2012

Walk to Zangla from Pishu

I walk bent over like a mule. I am weighed down by stones collected since Karsha; stones of many colors, shapes, sizes - irresistibly attractive and impossible not to pick. There are zen stones of quiet and sombre gravity in deep browns, ochres, olive, black and ivory. And then there are those that dance in jewel shades, reminiscent of Persian miniatures in gold, orange, red, maroon, turquoise, jade and emeralds. Loaded, I still bend over to pick up one more gem from this endless quarry, marveling at my good fortune, joyous in my finds.

And so it has been all my life. I have been collecting and gathering gems - of experiences, relationships, possessions - joyous and grateful for my blessedness. I have been collecting and gathering a treasure trove of my many carings and attachments. Each of them speak to me in their own unique way - each with a precious beauty and joy.My life brims with gems of parents, sisters, husband, children and many friends. I love my home, my music, my books and the many artifacts gathered from decades of wanderings - buckets of stones, shells tucked in corners, under my bed, a glass full of feathers and quills, a box of precious bugs and butterflies on the shelf. These gatherings in my life usually keep me so rapt and engrossed, that I am usually unmindful of my weariness and my bent back.

In all these cases, the burden is in making it mine - in the ownership - in the Me. Stones of Zanskar will continue their jewel dance or instill a zen quiet - as is their nature. It is in their possession that I start loading my back. And so also in my life - the burden comes only from the ego of my possessing - bringing expectations and pain. Love continues even without burden of ownership.

It is to seek this lightness and grace that I came to Zanskar.

(from my notes while trekking, in solitude, through Zanskar - one month back)

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Till Zanskar Became Blue

Journeys begin in quests. As a city dweller my quests usually take me to wild still spaces, star-drenched skies, sounds of uninterrupted winds and songs of rivers. I seek out those rare haunts where man becomes firmly aware of his insignificance in the vastness of natural world.

The vast and wild areas of Ladakh that beckoned me, are now discovered. Leh, with a population of about twenty thousand, saw ten times more visitors during this season. The quiet and narrow lanes of my memories now teem with hotels, restaurants, bars, shops, and endless line of vendors selling cheap souvenirs along the sidewalks - even at the fag end of the tourist season - when I arrived. The profane overwhelmed the profound. In seeking a stillness and a connection with my insignificance, I hurried towards the vast and open heart of Ladakh - to Zanskar.

Here, the mountains echo waves, tossed by an young and tumultuous earth, mighty glaciers remain unebbed by the August heat, brooks and streams crisscross many grassy valleys, and an occasional herder in his wine colored goncho ambles after his goats and sheep. In this quiet and stillness, gongs sound from a distant gompa and fluttering prayer flags remind "Om Mani Padme Hum" [Oh the Jewel in the Lotus, resides Within].

I arrived to Zanskar with a muddy heart and a soiled spirit only to find the unbearably blue Zanskar river of my memories and dreams - also a muddy brown. I asked a Lama about it and he said that this was all the water of the rains; only when the river flows with water of the purest ice from the highest mountains would the river become blue. I realised then that a similar river, fed by many streams, and from many pounding rains coursed within me; I would have to wait in patience, stillness, and solitude to have my river be fed by crystals of purest ice from the highest reaches within me. I would have to wait out in Zanskar till the I that Am - became the I that Am Not - for it is only in this disappearance of I, that I could become one with the Universe - a clear, transparent, Zanskari turquoise Blue.




Monday, May 25, 2009

Feel Like God

There are two ways I handle dreams - I rarely ever ignore dreams.

So, the most common approach, is to let my cold logic and rationale, break up a dream into small, manageable components, which I attack with gusto.

A second, more exciting way, is to throw caution to winds, jump in with a swim or drown attitude.

I am about to jump off into unchartered territory, swim unknown waters, throw that element of unknown into an already choppy life which will take me to shores, as yet unimagined. I jump in with a sense of absolute delight, delicious guilt, unadulterated joy of committing a sin - deliberately. And the dream....???

"Feel Like God"

It was an advertisement that seduced me a few years back. A guy on a Bajaj Avenger, black, low slung, powerful, racing alone on a road through infinite landscapes of Ladakh. He was smiling. Then came up the voice/text - and I was hooked.

Now, I am small by most standards, I don't need a powerful bike, I don't have the money, I don't know how to ride it, and Ladakh is really far from the mad, congested, urbanised, polluted Bangalore. So what will I do with a bike, like this???

My husband teases me - I am already getting a god-like glow. My sisters suggest that God wear a helmet. And me....I have been wearing a big, fat, stupid grin last few days. I am already flying in my imagination, on my own black Bajaj Avenger!!!