Srinagar- A Jewel in the Crown

If Kashmir crowns India with stunning natural beauty, rich cultural heritage, astoundingly diverse geography,and sublime climate -then, surely, Srinagar is the singular jewel in this crown. Dominated by snow capped Pir Panjals, and irrigated by Jhelum with its network of canals, the city grew around the majestic blue-green Dal lake with its opulent houseboats, floating gardens, vegetable markets, and a maze of waterways leading to flourishing handicraft industries in finest form. It was here that influences from far and distant lands of Mongolia, China mingled with that from Persia, and Europe to emerge in a breathtaking tapestry of unique cultural identity with highly evolved forms of arts, crafts and architecture. Thus Srinagar became pivotal in evolution of finest carpet weaving, baroque paper mache, luxuriant silks and wools with refined needlework, and richly carved woodwork of the traditional walnut. Kashmiri architecture carved its own distinctive niche with wooden square steeples, wood inlaid work and simpler architectural forms in striking contrast to the development in the Indian plains to the south.[My two favorite mosques were the Shahi Hamdan with interiors made entirely of paper mache in gold and jewel tones, and Jamia Masjid with austere, refined interior made of cedar in wooden monochromes.]

Interior of Shahi Hamdan

Inside Shahi Hamdan

Inside of Jamia Masjid

Jamia Masjid

We arrived in Srinagar in spring this year-a time for change, flux, a visible alteration in the mood of the city. The Chinars (maples) were bursting in neon greens, the Safedas(poplars) again rustling. Doves circled overhead, and ducks splashed in the lake. Shikaras plied once more on Dal lake, in rich gaudy colors, kishtis crowded the waterways laden with produce, flowers. Mughal gardens reopened on Baishakhi-the first day of spring, and still competed for attention of admirers hundreds of years later. Shiraj - the tulip garden- put on an impressive show with nine hundred thousand tulips marking its opening.

People also racially merged in Srinagar and defined their own Kashmiri identity with distinctive clothing, food, and lifestyles. With spring, heavy woolen pherans that sheltered live kangris were shed, and lighter pherans with flashing tilla work, colorful headscarves and silver jewellery made a more flamboyant statement. Men could be seen sitting in groups in the courtyards, sharing a hookah, while longer lines of people relaxed and gossiped awaiting kashmiri bread outside bakeries.

phirens with tilla work

Along the lake front, shutters reopened after long winter months, Lal Chowk overflowed with merchandise, and travellers from distant lands could still be seen crossing the ancient wooden bridges over the Jhelum- tall Pathans with fiery beards, traders from buddhist Ladakh, portly merchants from the Indian plains. Srinagar accepted them all with a rakish laughter, a crinkled cunning look, ready to strike a bargain, acknowledging their historical role and ready once more to gain from it.